Of all the household appliances we’d expect to smell not-so-fresh after a while, the washing machine probably isn’t one of them — it’s continuously cleaning our clothes, after all, so shouldn’t it be clean itself? But over time, even the items in our household that clean other things need a little TLC. If you’ve noticed a musty or mildewy smell coming from the heart of your laundry room, it’s time to add it to your cleaning to-do list. Here are a few common causes behind unfortunate smells in your washing machine, along with cleaning tips to help freshen it up.
Whether you have a top-loading or front-loading washing machine, the gasket — the large rubber ring that acts as a water barrier — can start to smell due to mold and soap scum buildup. This will be more of an issue on front-loading washing machines than top-loading ones, but both should be cleaned regularly.
Clean the exterior of the seal using hot, soapy water and a microfiber cloth. To get into the seal’s narrow crevices, use an old toothbrush dipped in a vinegar and warm water solution. Wipe the seal down with a cloth and leave the door open until everything is dry.
While we’ve all made this mistake, leaving wet clothes in the tub for long periods after a cycle can lead to a musty smell. Remove clothes as soon as possible after the cycle is complete to keep your tub smelling fresh. To remove any lingering odors, wash your tub (more on that below).
Whether it’s from last week’s wet laundry or an accumulation of hard-water minerals, detergent residue, or hidden grime, your washing machine tub itself may be the source of unwanted odors.
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To clean, pour one cup of bleach into the bleach dispenser and set your washer to the hottest cycle. (Make sure there’s no laundry in the tub.) When that’s done, run a final rinse cycle to remove any remaining bleach from the tub and clean the dispensers. Leave the door open for a while to allow everything to dry, and repeat once monthly to keep odors at bay.
Your dispenser drawer can smell because of the accumulation of soap and liquid softeners as well as mineral deposits from hard water. Remove the drawer, take out its inserts, and wash it all with mild soap and hot water using a soft brush. If you can’t remove the drawer, use a damp cloth to wipe it clean.
Using an excessive amount of detergent is bad not only for your clothes, but also for the washing machine — high-efficiency (HE) washing machines typically don’t need as much detergent.
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The exact amount you need will vary based on the size of the load, the soil level of your clothes, the type of detergent you use, and your washing machine. You should refer to your manufacturer’s guidelines to find out the ideal amount to use per cycle, but a good guideline for an average load is to use half an ounce of laundry detergent per cycle for HE machines and 1 ounce per cycle for non-HE machines.
While using only cool water can certainly save money on your electric bill, it isn’t good for removing bacteria from clothes or residue from your washing machine tub, which can lead to increased mold and mildew that cause a smell.
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You don’t need to switch to hot cycles to combat this problem. Just run the hot-water cycle in an empty tub occasionally to sanitize the machine.
Realizing you let an expensive loaf of artisanal bread get moldy on your kitchen counter is not a good feeling. You face a conundrum: Do you throw it out, wasting both food and money, or slice off those few inconspicuous spots and proceed with your sandwich like nothing ever happened? What if you realize the bread is moldy after you eat that sandwich?
Mold is all around us — outdoors, in our homes, and on our food. Most molds are harmless, and some even help produce certain foods: Penicillium roqueforti gives blue cheese its deliciously sharp taste and blue streaks, and Penicillium camemberti allows soft cheeses like brie to build white rinds. But not every mold is as appetizing as those.
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Here’s what to know about mold on your food — and what to do if some accidentally goes down the hatch.
Molds are microscopic, multicellular fungi that have threadlike roots and reproduce by spores. The spores can spread through the air, land on food, and multiply if the conditions are right. Mold especially loves humidity. Moist baked goods left unwrapped on a kitchen countertop are the perfect landing strips for airborne spores to burrow into. Even food that’s in the fridge can get moldy after a few weeks if there are high levels of moisture inside the packaging.
Just about any kind of food can get moldy: Meats, dairy products, fruits, vegetables, breads, and condiments are all fair game. Even jams and pickles are susceptible because some molds thrive in sugary, salty, and highly acidic environments.
Most molds, including ones we may eat, present no danger to people, so accidentally ingesting them won’t cause any problems beyond grossing you out. However, some molds typically found on grains, nuts, and fruit do produce compounds called mycotoxins, which may result in gastrointestinal discomfort, flu-like symptoms, and short-term memory loss if eaten by mistake. Severe cases of poisoning by some forms of mycotoxins can lead to more serious issues, including cancer.
It’s impossible to tell which molds are toxic just by looking at them, so food safety experts say you should throw out most foods with visible mold. Cutting off the moldy part of a doughnut or tomato to save the rest isn’t advised because the mold’s filaments can extend deep into the food, especially if it’s soft and has a lot of moisture. Those qualities also attract bacteria. Dairy products, most fruits and veggies, cooked rice and pasta, cooked meats and legumes, and breads all fall under this umbrella.
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There are some exceptions to this rule: hard-textured blocks of cheese such as Parmesan or cheddar (make sure to toss any shredded cheese with mold, though); cured meats like hard salami; and hard vegetables including carrots and cabbage. Mold filaments can’t penetrate these foods easily, so in these cases, you can trim off the moldy part plus a 1-inch margin around and below it (or, in the case of salami, scrub the mold off) and salvage the remaining portion.
If you accidentally chow down on some spoiled or moldy food, remain calm. Keep watch for nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, stomachache, or brain fog — symptoms that may be more severe in people who have existing health issues — for the next 24 hours in case you develop a delayed reaction. Call your doctor if you notice any discomfort, but if that period ends without new symptoms, rest assured that you’ll probably be fine. (But you should still toss the moldy food in question.)
Kat Long is a freelance science journalist in the Washington, D.C.
area. Previously, she was the science editor at Mental Floss and a
digital editor at National Geographic. She now writes the Arctic Archives newsletter on Substack. Kat spends her free time birdwatching, road-tripping to historical sites and perusing old
manuscripts at libraries.
All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.
Beach season is almost upon us, which means it’s time to buy a new bottle of sunscreen, grab a UPF cover-up, and pick up a fresh beach towel or two. The kind of towel you reach for will depend on your preferences — do you prioritize absorbency over sand-shedding properties? Do you want to feel cozy or have your towels dry quickly? Here’s what I pack in my bag when I’m beach-bound.
Credit: Images courtesy of Nomadix
My Favorite Beach Towel
When I go to the beach, my No. 1 priority is to leave sand there, where it belongs — there’s truly nothing worse than those tiny, irritating little grains getting into the crevices of your bag or the cracks in your floor at home. I also need the towel to be dry so I can shove it back into my bag without worrying about getting my books, camera, phone, or anything else wet. My preferred towel is of the microfiber variety (more on that later), and Nomadix is my favorite.
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It’s true that these towels aren’t as plush as cotton, which I miss on windy beach days when I want a little something more to keep me warm. And depending on where you’re getting your towels, Nomadix might be on the pricier side when compared to terry. That said, Nomadix towels are still soft, especially if you get their microsuede material — and the pros far outweigh the cons, which I think makes the price tag worth it.
The towels come in a ton of fun patterns and themes — the national parks towels are especially fun — and in addition to repelling sand, they also repel pet fur, which is huge in my two-cat household. (I rubbed these towels all over my cats and the few strands of fur that stuck brushed right off. I need clothing made of this material.)
I also appreciate that there seems to be a size for every occasion. An original towel measures 30 inches by 72.5 inches and weighs 16 ounces, and the ultralight, with the same dimensions, weighs half that. Nomadix also makes blanket towels that measure 60 inches by 80 inches — large enough to accommodate three people — and weigh 32 ounces. There are even tiny towels and bandanas. Like all microfiber towels, they’re absorbent (they can hold four times as much liquid as they weigh) and fast-drying, which means there’s no funky, wet scent hanging around. Every towel has UPF 50 sun protection, too.
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Nomadix towels are also made with recycled materials, and the company donates 1% of its fiscal sales to environmental causes, so you can feel good about your purchases. The original towel costs $40, the ultralight is $30, and blanket towels are $65.
I love these towels so much, I’ve given them as gifts to the frequent campers and festival-goers in my life. I’ve taken the tiny towels to the gym and the original towels to the beach, and one will be coming with me on a two-week trip to Iceland later this year so I can dry off at the many hot springs I plan to visit. (I might also pick up one of their changing ponchos for the hot springs that don’t have changing facilities.) My original towel won’t take up too much space in my suitcase because it packs down small, to just 3.5 inches by 7 inches.
Nomadix bills itself as “the only towel you’ll ever need,” and I think in terms of adventure and travel, that statement rings true. If you have a vacation planned this year where you need a towel that’s light, durable, and fast-drying, you may want to pick one up.
The first thing that comes to mind when you think of a beach towel is probably one made of cotton (or a cotton blend). The classic towel usually has a terrycloth weave — they’re plush and cozy, which make them great for lounging, as well as incredibly absorbent, so they can soak up any moisture the ocean throws your way.
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Unfortunately, that plushness means they might take some time to dry. The large loops in the fabric can also hang on to sand, depositing it in your bag or your car when your day at the beach is done. So, depending on your tolerance for those things, you might be better off using a plush cotton towel at the pool rather than at the beach.
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If you do opt for cotton terry, make sure you get one that’s not too fluffy: Towel thickness is measured in grams per square meter, or GSM, and beach towels should be in the 300 to 400 GSM range. That way, they won’t be too heavy and will dry more quickly than a towel with a higher GSM. You can find some nice cotton/bamboo beach towels at Cozy Earth.
Turkish cotton towels are thinner and more lightweight than traditional cotton towels, so it’s easy to pack a few in your bag. They’ll dry more quickly, and because they don’t have terrycloth’s plush weave, they’re less likely to hang on to sand. They also get softer the more you wash them.
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Turkish cotton towels are likely to cost more than other types of towels up front, but they can last for years with proper care. Wayfair has great options for both Turkish cotton beach towels and terrycloth towels; you can find them here.
Like Turkish cotton towels, microfiber towels are thin and lightweight, making them easy to stick in your beach tote or suitcase. They’re also incredibly absorbent, capable of holding several times their weight in water, and they’re quick-drying as well, making them a great option for humid environments. The tight weave of microfiber fabric keeps sand away because there are no loops to trap it — you can just shake it off.
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Microfiber towels hold up after repeated washings and can last for years, but because they’re made of synthetic material, they’re also sensitive to high heat, so make sure to care for them properly.
Microfiber towels might not be right for you, particularly if you prefer a fluffier towel or prioritize natural fibers over synthetics. They’re best if you go to the beach frequently, hike or camp often, or participate in activities that benefit from a compact, lightweight towel that dries quickly. You can find more microfiber towels here.
With over 2,000 locations (and growing) across the United States, Aldi has quickly become one of the more popular grocery chains in the country. Part of the reason is that Aldi offers high-quality products at low prices, making it a dream destination for shoppers on a budget. But for all of Aldi’s fantastic deals, there are some products worth buying elsewhere. In some cases, it’s because the savings can’t make up for the quality. In others, it’s because even Aldi’s prices aren’t the lowest. Here are 10 items you should avoid buying at Aldi and seek out somewhere else.
Many Aldi shoppers report that the store’s prepackaged chicken breasts have an off-putting flavor and strange texture. They’re often criticized for being rubbery and tough, which some speculate has to do with their genetically-modified nature. But not all Aldi chicken products get the same complaints. Shoppers are fond of Aldi’s bone-in chicken options.
Paper Products
If you’re looking to replenish your toilet paper or paper towels, steer clear of shopping at Aldi. This is not to say that Aldi sells inferior paper products, or that the goods are overpriced (in fact, they may be cheaper than what’s available at Target and Walmart). It’s more about the fact that you can find better savings at big-box wholesalers such as Sam’s Club, BJ’s, and Costco, which have a reputation for selling paper products on the cheap.
Aldi customers regularly report rapid spoilage for fresh produce. Some widely derided products include bagged onions and “fresh” berries, among other problematic produce. Reviews repeatedly point to inconsistencies within the produce department, with many customers complaining of mealy textures and short shelf lives. So while the company may sell these products at a lower cost, it comes with an added risk of not knowing how long the produce will last.
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Name-Brand Goods
While walking through the aisles at Aldi, you may be tempted to snag a familiar brand of mayonnaise or peanut butter. But though the name-brand products may be cheaper than they would be at other grocery chains, they’re still often priced higher than the Aldi-brand alternatives. So, if you want to save, you should opt for the more affordable — but typically still high-quality — Aldi-brand option instead.
According to some reviews, Summit, Aldi’s own line of soda, doesn’t live up to the same standard that you expect from Coca-Cola or Sprite. Instead of buying a generic soft drink at Aldi, get a name-brand soda somewhere else. They’re about the same price as they are at Aldi, and odds are, you’ll find a coupon to get the soda on discount, whereas Aldi doesn’t even accept coupons.
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Deli Meat
Depending on who you ask, Aldi either offers decent-quality deli meat, or some of their offerings in that department are slimy and disgusting. In any case, Aldi stores lack traditional deli counters, which means you’re stuck buying whatever’s been packaged, and you won’t have the option to get the meat sliced to your liking. You may want to go to a store that has a deli section where you can speak to someone and get the meat sliced to the perfect thickness instead.
Jarred Pickles
Aldi shoppers have taken to sites like Reddit to express dissatisfaction with the store’s brand of shelf-stable jarred pickles. Many say that the pickles are mushy and lack the crunch that fresh pickles tend to have, while the website Aldi Reviewer declared them to be “fine.” While those pickles leave something to be desired, others say that the store’s refrigerated pickles are actually quite tasty.
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Cream Cheese
People online have described Aldi’s cream cheese as being “sour” or having a “metallic” flavor. Even those who are less critical of the product say it’s inferior to trusted cream cheese brands such as Philadelphia, which many shoppers consider to be well worth the higher cost.
Millville Crispy Oats are Aldi’s take on Cheerios. But many people report that the cereal is awful, with one Redditor even saying that it tastes “like packing material.” Another declared it was “the only Aldi food that I’ve put directly in the trash.” Given that Aldi doesn’t accept coupons — while other grocery stores frequently discount their cereal — we’d suggest buying your cereal elsewhere.
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Deodorant
In an interview with Yahoo! Finance, David Bakke, an Aldi shopping expert at the website DollarSanity, noted that the price of deodorant isn’t all that cheaper at Aldi. One brand of deodorant actually cost more at Aldi than it did at Target. If you’re looking to save money and smell good, we’d advise doing price comparisons at other stores and using a coupon to get the best deal.
Bennett Kleinman is a New York City-based staff writer for Inbox Studio. He is also a freelance comedy writer, devoted New York Yankees and New Jersey Devils fan, and thinks plain seltzer is the best drink ever invented.
All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.
A fire can cause immense damage to your home and property and even put your life at risk. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, there were more than 300,000 residential fires between 2014 and 2023, which caused over $11 billion in damage. The right fast-acting response can save your home and your life.
However, not all fires should be handled the same way. Nicholai Allen, an active wildland firefighter and CEO of the fire safety company MAUS USA, says that “using the wrong method can make a fire dramatically worse.”
With that in mind, we’re sharing ways to handle different types of fire in their earliest stages. Your first step should be to call 911. Then, “if the fire is small, contained, and you have the right tool on hand, you can attempt to suppress it, only if you can do so safely and maintain a clear exit path,” Allen says. But “if it’s growing, producing heavy smoke, or blocking your exit, leave immediately,” he adds, and leave the firefighting to the professionals.
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Handling Fires by Class
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) classifies fires by the substance that is burning. There are five classifications — A, B, C, D, and K — and each requires a different approach.
A Class A fire includes the burning of common combustible materials, such as wood, cloth, paper, rubber, and many plastics. For this type of fire, Allen says that “early intervention matters most” as it can “quickly become nondefensible.”
A Class A fire can be put out with a water, foam, or ABC extinguisher. To do so, “aim at the base [where the fire is burning] and maintain an exit path,” Allen advises. “Avoid letting it spread into walls, attics, or multiple fuel sources.”
A Class B fire is the burning of flammable and combustible liquids, such as gasoline, solvents, or propane. For this type of fire, you should “never use water, as it spreads the fuel and fire,” Allen says. Instead, “use foam, CO2, or ABC extinguishers to smother the fire.” Additionally, if it’s safe to do so, “stop the flow of flammable liquid or gas feeding the fire,” Allen says. “For example, [by] turning off a gas valve, stopping a leak, or moving nearby fuel containers away from the fire.”
A Class C fire can include fuel from Class A or B, but with powered electrical equipment involved. Allen advises that the safest way to put out this type is to turn off the power first, if you can do so safely. Never use water, which can conduct electricity and put you in danger. Instead, Allen says, extinguishers that use “nonconductive agents like CO2 or dry chemical” are best. Using a fire suppressor — a device designed to interrupt the fire at a chemical level — is also an option. Not only do they “rapidly suppress fire in small spaces,” Allen says, but they also won’t damage your electronics, which is a possibility with traditional fire extinguishers.
A Class D fire includes combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, zirconium, sodium, lithium, and potassium. Allen recommends avoiding DIY suppression as these “are highly specialized hazards.” Never use water or a traditional fire extinguisher, which Allen says can lead to explosions. Instead, evacuate the area and wait for professional firefighters to arrive.
Class K fires include the burning of cooking oil and grease. This is the type of fire you’ll typically experience cooking at home. It’s responsible for about 44% of home fires in the U.S., according to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), and it’s “one of the most dangerous [fire scenarios] if handled incorrectly,” Allen says.
If it’s a small fire, the best move is to “cover it with a lid or fire blanket [and] turn off the heat,” Allen says. “Never use water, as it can cause explosive flare-ups.” For a larger fire, use a Class K extinguisher.
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Must-Have Equipment for Handling Fires at Home
While it’s preferable to leave firefighting to the professionals, there are steps you can take at home to stop a fire from spreading. Just make sure to call 911 right away, as fires can spread quickly.
You can reduce your chances of having to handle a fire by taking the proper preventative steps. According to the American Red Cross, you should have smoke alarms installed on every level of your home. Test them every month to ensure they’re working and change the batteries when needed. Also, talk to your loved ones about a fire escape plan and practice it twice a year. As Allen says, evacuation is essential “when the fire is beyond control.”
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Knowing how to use a fire extinguisher can help you take action when needed. Don’t practice with one around the house — you’ll need to refill it once it’s been used and will likely create an unnecessary mess. Instead, contact your local fire department or city for potential training. And don’t forget to check regularly to make sure it’s not expired.
All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.
Too often, we find unwanted guests at our dinner table: flies. Though there are more than 160,000 species of flies, the housefly accounts for about 90% of those found in our homes. Known as “filth flies,” they plague households and picnics around the world, popping up during warmer months en masse.
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Before sanitation standards improved, houseflies posed a major threat to public health in cities. Is their reputation as harbingers of disease deserved? Here’s what the research says.
Houseflies don’t distinguish between clean food and contaminated surfaces, which means they can transmit disease. They spend much of their time on unsanitary, decomposing organic matter, such as animal carcasses, feces, and rotting plants.
When flies land on things like garbage or manure, germs are transferred to their feet and bodies. As a result, they may carry millions of microorganisms, including potentially harmful pathogens and parasites. These microbes can then be transferred to food upon contact.
Another sanitation concern is how flies eat. They land on our food because they like to eat it, but they can’t bite into it — their mouthparts are made only to sponge or lap up food. Instead, they spit out saliva loaded with enzymes that dissolve food so they can suck it up. If a fly spends a lot of time on our food, it may vomit, eat, and defecate repeatedly, potentially leaving behind pathogens.
Researchers estimate that flies have the ability to transmit at least 65 diseases to humans through regurgitation and defecation. This includes things like typhoid fever, dysentery, cholera, leprosy, and tuberculosis — though real-world evidence of disease transmission is mostly circumstantial.
Everyone handles the question of flies on food differently. Some swat them away and continue eating. Others throw away the parts of the food that were touched, while some toss out the entire plate. The correct answer can be any of these options, depending on the situation.
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According to Dr. Cameron Webb, a clinical lecturer at Sydney Medical School, a single landing from a fly is unlikely to contain enough bacteria to cause illness, provided a person is healthy — so in that case, there’s no reason to throw away your food. However, longer periods of contact, along with greater numbers of flies, increase the likelihood of contamination. For example, if a serving plate at a picnic is covered in flies, it’s best to throw the food away. As with all communicable diseases, any threat would be greater for at-risk groups, such as young children, older adults, and immunocompromised individuals.
Interestingly, the risk of transmission is greater outside of cities, where flies are more likely to come into contact with animal waste and decaying matter. In urban areas, insecticides and hygiene measures have reduced both fly populations and their exposure to highly contaminated materials.
To limit the number of flies in and around your home and reduce your risk of food contamination, focus on sanitation first so that flies have fewer places to breed. This means keeping trash cans tightly closed and clearing piles of decaying organic matter, such as garbage, grass clippings, weed piles, and animal feces.
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Physical barriers can be effective, too. Install screens on windows, doors, and ventilation openings, and seal gaps around pipes or wiring that may allow flies to enter the home.
Additionally, there are several nonchemical methods of reducing flies in indoor settings, such as UV traps, sticky traps, and fly swatters. As a last resort, chemical control may be necessary. Indoors, an aerosol spray for winged insects will provide temporary relief.
Stronger insecticides may be used on exterior surfaces, but they often break down in sunlight within several days. And some housefly populations have developed resistance to certain insecticides such as DDT, limiting their effectiveness.
Despite their reputation as nuisance insects, flies in general play an important ecological role. Many species contribute to pollination and help break down organic matter, accelerating decomposition.
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In many food chains around the world, flies also serve as food for insectivorous predators, such as frogs, lizards, spiders, and birds, making them a valuable part of many ecosystems. So, while we don’t want them in our food or homes, they still have a role to play in nature.
4 Fly Deterrent Products
Amazon
Portable Fly Repellant Fans
These battery-powered fans help keep flies away without the need for insecticide sprays near food. Their soft-touch blades stop on contact for safety, while the reflective, holographic pattern helps deter insects. Pick up this set of four for your next barbecue.
Protect your food from insects, dust, and debris with breathable nylon covers. A sturdy metal frame keeps them in place outdoors, while the fine mesh allows airflow and helps prevent condensation buildup.
No one likes using heavy-duty chemicals inside the home. This indoor fly trap uses light and gentle suction to attract and capture insects instead. Flies are trapped on a concealed glue board, helping reduce indoor populations discreetly.
While heavy-duty insecticides are generally recommended for outdoor use, plant-based sprays such as Wondercide — which is formulated with essential oils including peppermint, cedarwood, lemongrass, and rosemary — are safe for indoor use. They can help repel and kill common household pests without posing a health risk. (The spray can cause irritation and possibly allergic reactions if used improperly, however, so make sure to use as directed.)
What the Whites of Your Eyes Are Trying To Tell You
Better Report
They say the eyes are the window to the soul — but if you ask a doctor, the eyes are also a window into a person’s current health. If you notice that the whites of your eyes look discolored, it could be a sign of a brewing medical concern. Yellowing, browning, graying, or other changes in color indicate different ailments that are worth paying attention to. Let’s take a look at the possible reasons that the whites of your eyes may look tinted.
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Changes Worth Keeping an Eye On
When we talk about changes in eye color, we’re not referring to the iris — the central circle that’s typically brown, blue, or green. We’re talking about the sclera, which is the white part that makes up the majority of an eye’s surface. Changes to the color of the sclera can be indicative of anything from possible disease to being on certain medications.
Every once in a while, your sclera may look red or pink. Any redness is often a relatively harmless case of allergies, dryness, or something slightly more annoying such as pink eye. It could also be a subconjunctival hemorrhage; this sounds scary, but it’s just a broken blood vessel that will typically heal on its own over time. Red eyes can also be a sign of conditions like uveitis (inflammation of the middle layer of the eyeball, which can lead to vision loss) or glaucoma. If you have any concerns, it’s best to visit an eye doctor.
One of the most common ophthalmological color changes is yellowing, which could be caused by a number of things. If you notice a small, yellowish raised growth, for example, it could be a pinguecula. It’s believed that the growth — which is on the conjunctiva, the clear tissue that covers the sclera — is caused by irritation and exposure to UV light, wind, and dust. It won’t go away, but it can be treated with eye drops if necessary. (In rare cases, it can become a condition called pterygium, in which the growth spreads across the eye toward the cornea. This may lead to loss of vision and require surgical removal.)
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If you notice the entire sclera has turned yellow, however, you might be suffering from a more pressing concern known as jaundice. Jaundice is caused by a buildup of bilirubin, which is created when red blood cells break down. Normally, this substance would be filtered out by the liver and turned into bile, so any yellowing in an eyeball could be a sign that something is wrong with the liver, gallbladder, or pancreas. Contact a medical professional if your sclera looks yellow.
Some eyeballs also have browning, and little brown spots that look like freckles can pop up from time to time. While those spots could be nothing, they could also be a sign of a condition known as primary acquired melanosis. This affliction tends to appear in people who are middle-aged, and often, it’s on the conjunctiva of just one eye. It can develop into cancer, so if you notice brown spots, it’s probably best to contact your doctor to determine the underlying cause.
Last but not least, there are cases where the sclera may turn a shade of blue or gray. This can be caused by medications such as minocycline, which people take if they have rheumatoid arthritis or certain other conditions. Over time, minocycline is known to cause changes not just to the color of the sclera but also to the skin, teeth, and fingernails.
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However, blueing/graying can indicate health conditions as well. For example, it can be a sign that the sclera is thinning and revealing the tissue underneath. It may also be a sign of Marfan’s syndrome, brittle bone disease, or anemia and/or iron deficiency. We’re not doctors and can’t make a diagnosis, so — as is the case with all of the potential concerns described in this article — be sure to ask a medical professional who can help you find a solution.
Bennett Kleinman is a New York City-based staff writer for Inbox Studio. He is also a freelance comedy writer, devoted New York Yankees and New Jersey Devils fan, and thinks plain seltzer is the best drink ever invented.
There’s a new health care intervention sweeping the nation: GLP-1 agonists. For the uninitiated, these medications — such as Ozempic and Mounjaro — help lower blood sugar and promote weight loss. By the end of 2025, approximately 1 in 8 American adults (12%) reported using GLP-1 medications, with the highest usage among adults ages 50 to 64 (22%).
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While the drugs have been used to treat conditions like Type 2 diabetes, heart disease, and obesity, they’re now influencing something far beyond health care: how Americans shop for food. Grocery stores and food brands are already adjusting by rethinking nutritional content, labels, and their marketing to a changing consumer.
GLP-1s fundamentally alter how the body digests and processes food. They trigger insulin release from the pancreas and suppress glucagon secretion, a hormone that raises blood sugar. They also slow digestion, keeping the stomach fuller for longer and cutting down on the amount of glucose from food that’s released into the bloodstream.
For most users, increased satiety, or a stronger sense of feeling full after eating, translates into smaller portions, fewer meals, and less frequent snacking. Over time, these shifts don’t just change eating habits and users’ health; they reshape grocery carts.
As millions of Americans snack less and eat differently, grocery stores have been forced to adapt. New research published in the Journal of Marketing Research found that within six months of at least one person starting a GLP-1 medication, household grocery spending dropped by an average of 5.3%. The average decrease among higher-income households was more than 8%.
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The steepest cuts came from ultra-processed, high-calorie foods. Think of “junk foods” and snacks such as chips, crackers, candy, and baked goods. But even everyday staples like bread, meat, and eggs saw declines, likely due to reduced portion sizes and decreased appetites leading to less food being purchased overall.
Spending in a few grocery categories is on the rise as consumers are more intentional about what they eat, favoring foods that support satiety and nutrition, which enhances the efficacy of their medication. This includes high-protein, high-fiber foods with fewer added sugars, along with probiotics and prebiotics.
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According to the same Journal of Marketing Research study, yogurt spending rose the most, and brands are noticing the impact. According to data from Danone, the world’s largest yogurt producer, yogurt consumption is three times higher in households using GLP-1s. The company’s high-protein Greek yogurt brand Oikos saw the greatest growth, with retail sales soaring 40% in 2024. Chobani Zero Sugar saw a 55% sales growth during that same year
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Nutrition bars, fresh fruit, and meat snacks also gained ground as shoppers trade in traditional snacks for more functional options. Still, these gains are modest compared to the broader decline.
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Grocery store planners are noticing similar trends in their local stores. Along with a focus on protein and fiber, shoppers are more interested in wellness items such as green juices and powders, vitamins, supplements, and electrolytes. It’s led some stores to adjust their offerings accordingly, ensuring there are more high-protein options available, tweaking ready-to-eat meals so they appeal to more health-conscious consumers, and providing plenty of supplements like fiber in the personal care aisles. ShopRite even put together a limited-time wellness starter kit available to customers filling their GLP-1 prescriptions at store pharmacies.
Brand marketers have also taken note of these changes and are capitalizing on the trend. Some products now feature “GLP-1 friendly” labels, signaling changes in nutritional content to align with the GLP-1 diet and attract shoppers — even on unexpected items like frozen pizza and ice cream. One store planner told Good Morning America that when they stock those items in her store, they’re placed at eye level to appeal to the consumer.
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However, nutritionists advise not to put much stock in these labels, as there is no medically-defined standard for what makes a food “GLP-1 friendly.” As nutritionist and chef Suzy Badaracco told NPR, “the labels are just marketing.”
Food analysts believe these new trends in healthy eating are disrupting fad diets such as keto, which, in mid-2025, saw an 18.5% drop in global interest year over year. Instead, more consumers are switching to balanced, whole-food diets with an emphasis on gut health, and a growing number are using GLP-1s to support lifestyle changes.
The impact extends beyond grocery stores. GLP-1 users are snacking less, experiencing fewer cravings, and prioritizing healthy foods, causing fast-food restaurants and limited-service eateries to see fewer customers and smaller orders. Spending at these establishments has fallen by about 8% among GLP-1 users, according to the Journal of Marketing Research study.
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Just as grocery stores are adapting, fast-food brands are pivoting. The quick-service restaurant chain Smoothie King now has a full GLP-1 Support Menu featuring high-protein, high-fiber, lower-calorie items, such as the “Gladiator GLP-1.” Similarly, Shake Shack offers a “Good Fit Menu” that advertises GLP-1 options, including traditional Angus beef lettuce wraps and veggie patty wraps. Fast-food giant McDonald’s is also keeping an eye on the GLP-1 trend. During a recent earnings call, CEO Chris Kempczinski revealed that the drugs are impacting products that the chain is testing, though no menu changes have been made yet.
There’s an important caveat, though: These changes may not last. The Journal of Marketing Research study found that when users stopped taking their GLP-1 medications, their food spending patterns largely reverted to pre-medication levels. In some cases, carts became even less healthy, with increased spending on items like candy and chocolate. So, while GLP-1s are reshaping grocery store aisles today, their long-term impact remains uncertain.
Rachel Gresh is a Washington, D.C.-based freelance writer. When she's not writing, you can find her wandering a museum, exploring an unfamiliar city, or baking something new in the kitchen.
All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.
It’s universal wisdom that you should rinse your hair after shampooing and douse your face after applying cleanser. But when it comes to good dental care, there’s an ongoing debate about whether or not you should rinse out your mouth after brushing your teeth.
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People in favor may argue that water is necessary to get rid of leftover toothpaste residue. But those opposed claim rinsing has unintended drawbacks. So should you rinse after brushing? Most experts agree that there’s a right and a wrong answer.
There are several reasons why you might feel inclined to rinse after brushing your teeth. Maybe the process doesn’t feel complete until you get rid of the toothpaste taste in your mouth, or maybe you want to use mouthwash to kill bacteria and freshen your breath.
Whatever your goal, you should avoid rinsing and simply spit out the excess toothpaste, at least for the time being: According to the American Dental Association, it’s best to wait at least 20 minutes after brushing before you consider rinsing. The reason has to do with the fluoride in most toothpastes, which helps strengthen tooth enamel and prevent decay. Fluoride takes time to work, and rinsing too soon lessens that mineral’s effectiveness.
This isn’t some bogus claim. Experts at the University of California San Francisco say that waiting to rinse with water or regular mouthwash can reduce tooth decay by up to 25%.
If you’ve made a habit of rinsing after brushing, it may be tough to quit. But the ADA has a few suggestions to help you get by until you’re able to phase out rinsing altogether.
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One is to take a tiny sip of water from your cupped hand — the small amount of water can help wash out chalky residue without completely negating the effects of the fluoride. Another is to use fluoride mouthwash instead of regular mouthwash or water, as the product promotes fresh breath while maintaining the necessary fluoride coating on your teeth. (The label will specify if your mouthwash contains fluoride or not.)
With all this talk about when not to rinse, did you know that there are times when you shouldn’t brush your teeth? Dentists recommend that you wait at least an hour to brush after eating or drinking anything acidic, such as citrusy juice or sour candy. Those acids weaken the teeth’s hard outer layer of enamel, and brushing too quickly after consuming something acidic means you can actually damage it further.
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Waiting around an hour gives saliva the chance to build up in the mouth and wash away those potentially harmful acids. This allows the enamel to harden again, and once it does, you can brush your teeth to your heart’s content.
Flossing allows you to reach food caught in the crevices of your teeth that are difficult to remove with a toothbrush. If you suffer from gingivitis, though, some dentists say that using floss can aggravate inflammation, push food deeper down into the inflamed gums, and potentially make things worse. But it’s not an option to ignore those areas where your toothbrush can’t go — it will allow dental plaque to accumulate and harden, eventually causing periodontitis if it’s not dealt with. So, in those cases, a Waterpik or other oral irrigator is an excellent alternative to flossing. It’s also useful when a person has braces or other orthodontics that can make it difficult to use normal floss. The consistent yet soothing stream of water from any oral irrigator — which you should use before you brush — helps dislodge food and plaque without irritating the gums like normal floss.
You Should Never Plug These Items Into a Power Strip
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According to Electrical Safety Foundation International, there are around 51,000 residential electrical fires in the U.S. every year, causing 500 deaths and 1,400 injuries (not to mention more than $1 billion in property damage). Some of those fires originate in power strips and extension cords, devices that are easier to misuse than you may think. We consulted two experts to find out what you can and can’t plug into a power strip, as well as best practices for using them safely.
Extension Cords vs. Power Strips vs. Surge Protectors
When you’re looking for additional plugs to power items, you’re likely to think of one of three devices: an extension cord, a power strip, or a surge protector. They’re not interchangeable, though — each serves a specific purpose.
“The purpose of power strips is to expand the number of available outlets at a single wall receptacle,” says Jordan Benjamin, president of Done Rite Services, an Arizona-based electrical, plumbing, and HVAC company. “[A] common misconception is that power strips create more power, but this isn’t true. Your circuit capacity is fixed at your breaker. Power strips just redistribute that existing capacity.”
Power strips differ from surge protectors, which offer additional protection against voltage spikes. Extension cords, meanwhile, “are designed to temporarily deliver power when an outlet isn’t accessible,” Benjamin says. “They are not designed to be a permanent solution for a lack of outlets.”
Whichever device you’re buying, “It is very important to pay attention to the amp[erage] rating on the power strip to not exceed it,” says Tom Jameson, owner of AstroWatt Electric in North Carolina. “The biggest misconception [people have] is that all power strips and extension cords are safe. Using the wrong size and gauge can do more harm than good.” You can find the maximum capacity of the strip in amps or watts on the underside, and calculate the total load by adding up the wattage of everything you plan to plug in (which should be somewhere on the devices themselves). You can convert amps to watts by multiplying amps times voltage.
The list of items you can’t plug into a power strip is long, but a good rule of thumb is to avoid high-wattage appliances (1,000 watts and above), anything that produces heat, and anything with a motor — they can overload a power strip and cause a fire. “These types of devices draw high current and have a significant startup surge when cycling on, which is more than a power strip is designed to handle,” Benjamin says. Here’s a short list of devices that aren’t ever safe to plug in:
• Fridges (or mini fridges)
• Toasters
• Slow cookers
• Coffee makers
• Microwaves
• Air fryers
• Blenders
• Irons
• Air conditioners
• Space heaters
• CPAP machines
• Electric blankets
• Power tools
There are also plenty of items you may think are OK for a power strip that actually aren’t. “Vacuums, hair dryers, and crock pots are [indoor] items people plug in all the time” that can cause problems, Jameson says.
For all of these items, it’s safest to use a wall outlet rather than a power strip or surge protector (which can also get overloaded). According to Benjamin, wall outlets are the “only safe option” because “they are part of a dedicated electrical circuit that was designed to carry a specific load with properly sized wiring, secure connections, and a protective breaker matched to that capacity. Power strips are simply not designed to handle big loads.”
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And, as Jameson points out, unlike a lot of power strips, most wall outlets are tamper-resistant, which “prevent[s] kids or animals from getting into them.”
You should also never plug an extension cord into a power strip, or a power strip into another power strip, a practice known as daisy chaining. According to Benjamin, “Daisy-chaining several strips together can lead to overheating and a greatly increased risk of fire and/or electrical shocks.”
Both Benjamin and Jameson have horror stories about things customers have plugged into power strips that have no business being there. “One of the worst setups I’ve encountered involved multiple power strips daisy-chained together behind an entertainment center,” Benjamin says. “This setup was used to power a TV, a cable box, a landline phone and answering machine, multiple gaming systems, a space heater, a small fan, and various chargers. It’s a miracle that the family never had a fire, but believe it or not, this type of setup isn’t at all uncommon.”
In addition to space heaters — “the No. 1 item to never plug into a power strip” — Jameson often sees people using the strips in garages. “That should never be done, either,” he says, because garages are full of dust and debris, “and dust and electricity do not mix.” (Dust isn’t as big of an issue inside your home, he says, but it’s still not ideal, so he recommends keeping a can of compressed air around to clean out power strips as well as your smoke detector.)
At this point, no one would blame you for wondering what you actually can plug into a power strip. According to Benjamin, “electronics and devices with a relatively low, steady power draw that don’t produce heat or run off of a motor or compressor are safe to use on a power strip.”
“When purchasing power strips,” Jameson says, “the main thing to look for is to ensure it’s UL Listed,” which means that it’s been tested by UL Solutions, a company that provides independent testing to ensure devices meet safety standards. He also recommends getting one that’s tamper-resistant — which will have safety shutters over the outlets — with a minimum rating of 15 amps. USB charging ports are a plus, too. (That said, “I wouldn’t ever personally recommend someone to use a power strip as a licensed electrician. I would always recommend having an electrician add more outlets to plug things in the right way.”)
Benjamin says that if you need more outlets, you should opt for a surge protector over a power strip to get that extra protection: “Look for a high joule rating — 2,000+ is ideal — ‘UL 1449 Revision 2’ stated on the packaging, clamping voltage (VPR) of 330V to 400V, a protection indicator light, and 3-line protection.” And make sure you’re buying from a reputable brand, even if it costs you a few extra bucks. “When it comes to valuable electronics, you don’t want to take any chances,” he says.
As we mentioned above, never, ever daisy chain power strips. You should also never use extension cords as permanent power solutions.
Additionally, you should visually inspect power strips regularly for damage. Jameson is always on the lookout for “any sort of discoloration or melting,” he says. “If you ever see anything changing color, burn marks, plastic melting, etc., unplug and throw away.” (Don’t just toss them in the trash, though; you should drop them off at a retailer with an e-waste recycling program or an authorized e-waste facility.)
Other signs that it’s time to toss your power strip and get a new one, according to Benjamin, are if the device “feels hot to the touch when in use, produces burning smells, frequently trips the breaker, doesn’t plug into the wall snugly, or doesn’t maintain consistent power anymore.”
You should also avoid running any cords under rugs or furniture that’s low to the ground, which can cause heat to build up and increase the risk of fire. Benjamin says you can put them in cabinets, provided that heat can escape (the back of the cabinet is open, for example, or there’s a vent). The power strip should also be mounted to the wall of the cabinet and there should be a hole for the cord so it doesn’t get pinched by the door.
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When it comes to what to plug into the outlet, Benjamin says, “err on the side of caution and use a wall outlet.” And if you find that you need a ton of power strips around your home, it may be time to make a phone call. “If you’re looking for additional options to plug in more devices [and] equipment,” Jameson says, “contact a licensed and insured electrician.”
