How To Put Out Any Kind of Fire

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A fire can cause immense damage to your home and property and even put your life at risk. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, there were more than 300,000 residential fires between 2014 and 2023, which caused over $11 billion in damage. The right fast-acting response can save your home and your life.

However, not all fires should be handled the same way. Nicholai Allen, an active wildland firefighter and CEO of the fire safety company MAUS USA, says that “using the wrong method can make a fire dramatically worse.”

With that in mind, we’re sharing ways to handle different types of fire in their earliest stages. Your first step should be to call 911. Then, “if the fire is small, contained, and you have the right tool on hand, you can attempt to suppress it, only if you can do so safely and maintain a clear exit path,” Allen says. But “if it’s growing, producing heavy smoke, or blocking your exit, leave immediately,” he adds, and leave the firefighting to the professionals.

Handling Fires by Class

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) classifies fires by the substance that is burning. There are five classifications — A, B, C, D, and K — and each requires a different approach.

clothing burning — Credit: © Wirestock, Inc./Alamy

Class A Fire

A Class A fire includes the burning of common combustible materials, such as wood, cloth, paper, rubber, and many plastics. For this type of fire, Allen says that “early intervention matters most” as it can “quickly become nondefensible.”

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A Class A fire can be put out with a water, foam, or ABC extinguisher. To do so, “aim at the base [where the fire is burning] and maintain an exit path,” Allen advises. “Avoid letting it spread into walls, attics, or multiple fuel sources.”

Propane tank burning — Credit: © B_Nattasak—iStock/Getty Images

Class B Fire

A Class B fire is the burning of flammable and combustible liquids, such as gasoline, solvents, or propane. For this type of fire, you should “never use water, as it spreads the fuel and fire,” Allen says. Instead, “use foam, CO2, or ABC extinguishers to smother the fire.” Additionally, if it’s safe to do so, “stop the flow of flammable liquid or gas feeding the fire,” Allen says. “For example, [by] turning off a gas valve, stopping a leak, or moving nearby fuel containers away from the fire.”

Electrical outlet burning — Credit: © weerapatkiatdumrong—iStock/Getty Images

Class C Fire

A Class C fire can include fuel from Class A or B, but with powered electrical equipment involved. Allen advises that the safest way to put out this type is to turn off the power first, if you can do so safely. Never use water, which can conduct electricity and put you in danger. Instead, Allen says, extinguishers that use “nonconductive agents like CO2 or dry chemical” are best. Using a fire suppressor — a device designed to interrupt the fire at a chemical level — is also an option. Not only do they “rapidly suppress fire in small spaces,” Allen says, but they also won’t damage your electronics, which is a possibility with traditional fire extinguishers.

Burning battery — Credit: © Just_Super—iStock/Getty Images

Class D Fire

A Class D fire includes combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, zirconium, sodium, lithium, and potassium. Allen recommends avoiding DIY suppression as these “are highly specialized hazards.” Never use water or a traditional fire extinguisher, which Allen says can lead to explosions. Instead, evacuate the area and wait for professional firefighters to arrive.

Firefighter in front of pan on fire — Credit: © Kileman—iStock/Getty Images

Class K Fire

Class K fires include the burning of cooking oil and grease. This is the type of fire you’ll typically experience cooking at home. It’s responsible for about 44% of home fires in the U.S., according to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), and it’s “one of the most dangerous [fire scenarios] if handled incorrectly,” Allen says.

If it’s a small fire, the best move is to “cover it with a lid or fire blanket [and] turn off the heat,” Allen says. “Never use water, as it can cause explosive flare-ups.” For a larger fire, use a Class K extinguisher.

Must-Have Equipment for Handling Fires at Home

While it’s preferable to leave firefighting to the professionals, there are steps you can take at home to stop a fire from spreading. Just make sure to call 911 right away, as fires can spread quickly.

Here’s a list of must-have items to have on hand:

• Fire blankets, such as LifeVac Fire Blanket or Premium Defense Fire Blanket, are suitable for Class A, B, and K fires or for covering yourself during escape. However, they can leave fiberglass behind and may require cleanup.
• ABC extinguishers, such as the First Alert Residential Rechargeable Fire Extinguisher and Kidde Basic Fire Extinguisher for Home, Residential, can be used for Class A, B, and C fires.
• Aerosol fire suppressants, such as the one made by Allen’s company, MAUS Multipurpose Extinguishing Spray, or First Alert EZ Fire Spray, are suitable for Class A, B, and C fires.
• CO2 BC fire extinguishers such as the Kidde Home and Workshop BC Fire Extinguisher work on Class B and C fires.

Testing smoke detector — Credit: CatLane—iStock/Getty Images

Preventing a Fire

You can reduce your chances of having to handle a fire by taking the proper preventative steps. According to the American Red Cross, you should have smoke alarms installed on every level of your home. Test them every month to ensure they’re working and change the batteries when needed. Also, talk to your loved ones about a fire escape plan and practice it twice a year. As Allen says, evacuation is essential “when the fire is beyond control.”

Knowing how to use a fire extinguisher can help you take action when needed. Don’t practice with one around the house — you’ll need to refill it once it’s been used and will likely create an unnecessary mess. Instead, contact your local fire department or city for potential training. And don’t forget to check regularly to make sure it’s not expired.

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Nicole Pyles

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Updated: September 18, 2024

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You Should Never Plug These Items Into a Power Strip

Person plugging a cord into a power strip

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According to Electrical Safety Foundation International, there are around 51,000 residential electrical fires in the U.S. every year, causing 500 deaths and 1,400 injuries (not to mention more than $1 billion in property damage). Some of those fires originate in power strips and extension cords, devices that are easier to misuse than you may think. We consulted two experts to find out what you can and can’t plug into a power strip, as well as best practices for using them safely.

Pwer strip with items plugged in — Credit: © Curated Lifestyle/Unsplash.com

Extension Cords vs. Power Strips vs. Surge Protectors

When you’re looking for additional plugs to power items, you’re likely to think of one of three devices: an extension cord, a power strip, or a surge protector. They’re not interchangeable, though — each serves a specific purpose.

“The purpose of power strips is to expand the number of available outlets at a single wall receptacle,” says Jordan Benjamin, president of Done Rite Services, an Arizona-based electrical, plumbing, and HVAC company. “[A] common misconception is that power strips create more power, but this isn’t true. Your circuit capacity is fixed at your breaker. Power strips just redistribute that existing capacity.”

Power strips differ from surge protectors, which offer additional protection against voltage spikes. Extension cords, meanwhile, “are designed to temporarily deliver power when an outlet isn’t accessible,” Benjamin says. “They are not designed to be a permanent solution for a lack of outlets.”

Plugging a microwave into a power strip — Credit: © José Araújo/iStock

Items You Should Never Plug Into a Power Strip

Whichever device you’re buying, “It is very important to pay attention to the amp[erage] rating on the power strip to not exceed it,” says Tom Jameson, owner of AstroWatt Electric in North Carolina. “The biggest misconception [people have] is that all power strips and extension cords are safe. Using the wrong size and gauge can do more harm than good.” You can find the maximum capacity of the strip in amps or watts on the underside, and calculate the total load by adding up the wattage of everything you plan to plug in (which should be somewhere on the devices themselves). You can convert amps to watts by multiplying amps times voltage.

The list of items you can’t plug into a power strip is long, but a good rule of thumb is to avoid high-wattage appliances (1,000 watts and above), anything that produces heat, and anything with a motor — they can overload a power strip and cause a fire. “These types of devices draw high current and have a significant startup surge when cycling on, which is more than a power strip is designed to handle,” Benjamin says. Here’s a short list of devices that aren’t ever safe to plug in:

• Fridges (or mini fridges)
• Toasters
• Slow cookers
• Coffee makers
• Microwaves
• Air fryers
• Blenders
• Irons
• Air conditioners
• Space heaters
• CPAP machines
• Electric blankets
• Power tools

There are also plenty of items you may think are OK for a power strip that actually aren’t. “Vacuums, hair dryers, and crock pots are [indoor] items people plug in all the time” that can cause problems, Jameson says.

For all of these items, it’s safest to use a wall outlet rather than a power strip or surge protector (which can also get overloaded). According to Benjamin, wall outlets are the “only safe option” because “they are part of a dedicated electrical circuit that was designed to carry a specific load with properly sized wiring, secure connections, and a protective breaker matched to that capacity. Power strips are simply not designed to handle big loads.”

And, as Jameson points out, unlike a lot of power strips, most wall outlets are tamper-resistant, which “prevent[s] kids or animals from getting into them.”

You should also never plug an extension cord into a power strip, or a power strip into another power strip, a practice known as daisy chaining. According to Benjamin, “Daisy-chaining several strips together can lead to overheating and a greatly increased risk of fire and/or electrical shocks.”

Both Benjamin and Jameson have horror stories about things customers have plugged into power strips that have no business being there. “One of the worst setups I’ve encountered involved multiple power strips daisy-chained together behind an entertainment center,” Benjamin says. “This setup was used to power a TV, a cable box, a landline phone and answering machine, multiple gaming systems, a space heater, a small fan, and various chargers. It’s a miracle that the family never had a fire, but believe it or not, this type of setup isn’t at all uncommon.”

In addition to space heaters — “the No. 1 item to never plug into a power strip” — Jameson often sees people using the strips in garages. “That should never be done, either,” he says, because garages are full of dust and debris, “and dust and electricity do not mix.” (Dust isn’t as big of an issue inside your home, he says, but it’s still not ideal, so he recommends keeping a can of compressed air around to clean out power strips as well as your smoke detector.)

Laptop, phone, and other small items plugged into a power strip — Credit: © Andrei310/iStock

What You Can Use a Power Strip For

At this point, no one would blame you for wondering what you actually can plug into a power strip. According to Benjamin, “electronics and devices with a relatively low, steady power draw that don’t produce heat or run off of a motor or compressor are safe to use on a power strip.”

That includes TVs, routers and modems, alarm clocks, phone and tablet chargers, and lamps. Laptops and computer monitors should be OK, but not if you have gaming setup or a ton of home office equipment. “The issue is that so many devices are plugged in and all are running simultaneously,” he says. “This draws more power than you would think and can lead to overheating, internal component melting, and damage to devices.”

Plugging an item into a power strip — Credit: © nipastock/iStock

What To Look for in a Power Strip

“When purchasing power strips,” Jameson says, “the main thing to look for is to ensure it’s UL Listed,” which means that it’s been tested by UL Solutions, a company that provides independent testing to ensure devices meet safety standards. He also recommends getting one that’s tamper-resistant — which will have safety shutters over the outlets — with a minimum rating of 15 amps. USB charging ports are a plus, too. (That said, “I wouldn’t ever personally recommend someone to use a power strip as a licensed electrician. I would always recommend having an electrician add more outlets to plug things in the right way.”)

Benjamin says that if you need more outlets, you should opt for a surge protector over a power strip to get that extra protection: “Look for a high joule rating — 2,000+ is ideal — ‘UL 1449 Revision 2’ stated on the packaging, clamping voltage (VPR) of 330V to 400V, a protection indicator light, and 3-line protection.” And make sure you’re buying from a reputable brand, even if it costs you a few extra bucks. “When it comes to valuable electronics, you don’t want to take any chances,” he says.

Power Strip Safety Tips

As we mentioned above, never, ever daisy chain power strips. You should also never use extension cords as permanent power solutions.

Additionally, you should visually inspect power strips regularly for damage. Jameson is always on the lookout for “any sort of discoloration or melting,” he says. “If you ever see anything changing color, burn marks, plastic melting, etc., unplug and throw away.” (Don’t just toss them in the trash, though; you should drop them off at a retailer with an e-waste recycling program or an authorized e-waste facility.)

Other signs that it’s time to toss your power strip and get a new one, according to Benjamin, are if the device “feels hot to the touch when in use, produces burning smells, frequently trips the breaker, doesn’t plug into the wall snugly, or doesn’t maintain consistent power anymore.”

You should also avoid running any cords under rugs or furniture that’s low to the ground, which can cause heat to build up and increase the risk of fire. Benjamin says you can put them in cabinets, provided that heat can escape (the back of the cabinet is open, for example, or there’s a vent). The power strip should also be mounted to the wall of the cabinet and there should be a hole for the cord so it doesn’t get pinched by the door.

When it comes to what to plug into the outlet, Benjamin says, “err on the side of caution and use a wall outlet.” And if you find that you need a ton of power strips around your home, it may be time to make a phone call. “If you’re looking for additional options to plug in more devices [and] equipment,” Jameson says, “contact a licensed and insured electrician.”

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5 Signs Your Tires Are a Safety Hazard

Better Report

There are countless perils you might encounter on the road — deer leaping out from behind bushes, reckless or distracted drivers, potholes and construction debris, stalled vehicles, and so on. While some of these issues are random and unavoidable, other potential problem areas are well within your control.

One thing you can and should do is properly maintain your tires, which are necessary for providing traction and stability. Over time, tires wear down and become safety hazards, or worse: According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), 646 people died of tire-related crashes in 2023.

The good news is that tires can be replaced, but the bad news is that a lot of people don’t know when to do so. Here are five signs it’s time to swap out those old tires for a new set.

Quarter in a tire tread — Credit: © JJ Gouin/iStock

Poor Tread Depth

The patterns and grooves on a new tire are known as the tire tread, and they provide traction on the road. But that tread wears down the more you drive, and in some cases it may end up completely smooth. The NHTSA recommends measuring tread depth at least once a month. New tires have a tread depth between 10/32 and 12/32 of an inch. Anything measuring around 4/32 of an inch is risky, and 2/32 of an inch or less is dangerous and below the legal limit.

Thankfully, there’s an easy way to measure tread depth using spare change. First, take a quarter and stick it into the tread with Washington’s scalp facing in toward the tire. The gap between his head and the edge of the quarter measures 4/32 of an inch, so if you see any open space, you know you’re teetering near dangerously low tread depth. Next, repeat the same test using a penny, which has 2/32 of an inch of space between the top of Lincoln’s head and the edge. If you see any space, you need to replace your tires ASAP.

Person in car staring at steering wheel — Credit: © Yuliia Kaveshnikova/iStock

Excess Vibration

While there may be no damage visible to the naked eye, an excessive amount of vibration while you’re driving can be a sign of internal wear in the tire. It can also indicate a misshapen tire, uneven treads, or a variety of other issues — all of which warrant replacing the tire. Whatever the case may be, you’ll likely notice the vibration at higher speeds, so stay alert on the highway.

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It may be difficult to determine which tire is at fault, but there are methods to narrow it down. If you feel more vibration coming from the steering wheel, the problem is likely emanating from one of the front two tires. But if you feel more vibration in the seat, the issue is probably coming from one of the rear tires.

While it is possible to fix the issue by having a professional rotate and adjust your tires, sometimes the wear is too substantial to remedy. Also, even if it’s only one tire creating the issue, it’s recommended to replace the entire set. This ensures that all tires have the same amount of tread, which can prevent future issues from popping up.

Closeup of a tire with worn treads — Credit: © Abu Hanifah/iStock

Uneven Wear

If you notice uneven tread wear on your tires, it may be due to improper installation. For instance, if the exterior half of the tire looks far more worn than the interior half (or vice versa), that’s one potential sign of poor alignment. Or if you notice that the middle part of the tire looks more worn down than the outer edges, that’s a sign of overinflation. These are just two examples, but whatever caused the issue, you should never drive on a tire with unevenly worn-down treads, as it could cause you to lose control on the road.

Bulge in a tire — Credit: © wachira aekwiraphong/iStock

Bubbles or Bulging

Visible bubbles or bulging are a surefire sign that the structural integrity of the tire has been compromised. These bulges usually form in the wake of a high-impact event — for example, hitting a large pothole, colliding with the curb, or driving too fast over a speed bump. Such events can damage the inner lining and cause leakage, which in turn leads to big bulges and the potential for the tire to pop. If you notice any of these bubbles beginning to form, swap out the tire for a new one ASAP.

Cracks in a tire — Credit: © ใหม่ ยิ้มเหงา/iStock

Sidewall Cracks

Take a look at the side of your tires — do you notice any cracking, akin to an old leather chair that’s started to show its age? If so, the tires are likely quite old themselves, and it may be time to replace them. Cracking is an issue that arises from general wear and tear as opposed to a single traumatic event. It’s a sign that your tires have served you well for years, but also that it’s time to install a new set. Leaving the cracks as-is can lead to a blowout in the blink of an eye.

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Lauren Dana Ellman

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Do You Actually Know How to Use Your Fire Extinguisher?

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You’ve got one nearby. I’m sure of it. Maybe it’s behind a plastic case mounted to the wall in your apartment building’s hallway, at your storage unit, in your workplace, or at school. It’s smart to keep at least one in your home and garage. It’s your fire extinguisher, and despite what Looney Tunes and the Three Stooges would have you believe, it’s not entirely intuitive to use.

Take it from me. I’ve had to use several in my lifetime during real-life emergencies, both at home and in the garage. You might be thinking, “Hey, it’s just a point-and-click interface. How hard could it be?” Spraying the foam (or powder) isn’t the tricky part. It’s knowing where to aim it in order to actually put out the fire. Preparation beats panic. It pays to think about this now, because when there’s a real-life emergency, you’ll be in no emotional state to learn or figure out how to use a fire extinguisher. You won’t exactly have time to pull up your phone and begin loading YouTube tutorials when your curtains or your kitchen cabinets are burning away.

How to Use a Fire Extinguisher

There’s a cutesy acronym for the right way to use a fire extinguisher: PASS. It stands for pull, aim, squeeze, and sweep. Do these four things correctly in that order, and your fire extinguisher just might put out the flames.

First, pull the safety pin that blocks the handle from being squeezed. It’s a loop of silver bare metal wire that unwinds into a straight pin, like a giant P, and it’s stuck through a hole in the handle. It’s easy to overlook, but every fire extinguisher I’ve seen has one. After all, the last thing you want is one going off accidentally and making a mess.

Then, aim the nozzle at the base of the flames. This is the important part that people tend to miss. In their panic, people often shoot the fire extinguisher wildly into the fire, and the extinguishing foam just goes through the tips of the flames without quenching them. You’re not going to put them out unless you go right for their base.

Now, with your nozzle aimed at the base of the flames, squeeze the trigger. Prepare yourself for a tremendous jet of white foam or powder to shoot out. The amount may surprise you, but keep going. Lastly, don’t just aim at a single spot at the base of the flames. Sweep the nozzle back and forth across the base of the area that’s on fire to put it all out, rather than just one little pinprick of an area.

Types of Extinguishers

Whether foam or powder comes out of your extinguisher depends on the types of fires for which it’s rated. Fire extinguishers are classed according to the types of fires they’re designed to extinguish.

Class A: Common dry combustibles, including wood, paper, fabrics, rubber, and many types of plastics.
Class B: Flammable liquids, including gasoline, alcohol, oil, and paint.
Class C: Electrical equipment.
Class D: Flammable metals, such as titanium, magnesium, and sodium.
Class K: Cooking oils and fats, particularly for industrial kitchens.

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Class A fires are so common, especially around the home, that it’s crucial to have an extinguisher capable of putting them out. Virtually everyone should prioritize having at least one or two ABC-rated fire extinguishers, which use sodium bicarbonate to smother A-, B-, and C-rated fires. I recommend the First Alert ABC-Rated Extinguisher or the Kidde ABC-Rated Extinguisher. Because cars are packed full of such diverse, flammable materials from all three classes, including rubber, gasoline, and electrical equipment, you should get an ABC-rated fire extinguisher for your garage, too.

BC-rated fire extinguishers use monoammonium phosphate as its extinguishing agent, which does a bit better of a job fighting Class B and C fires. Class D and K fire extinguishers are uncommon outside of industrial settings. Few companies sell them for the home.

Maintaining Your Extinguisher

Whichever you buy, make sure you routinely check the pressure gauge on each of your extinguishers. The needle should rest within the green zone. If it exceeds or drops below and into the red on either side, you need to either replace the fire extinguisher or have it checked by a certified fire equipment dealer near you — not your local fire department.

Traditionally, the advice is to have one fire extinguisher per level of your home. My own practice is to keep one in the kitchen, because that’s one of the most common locations of home fires, one in the bedroom, and one in the garage, at a bare minimum. From there, I’d add more for additional floors of the home if I had multiple stories still without an extinguisher on them. However many you choose and whichever brand you get, you’ve done yourself a huge service in preparedness just by reading this article. Now you know how to use a fire extinguisher exactly how you’re supposed to, should you ever need to.

An Alternative

There is an interesting alternative fairly new to consumers. Marketed to regular folks most notably by Element, these fire extinguishers ditch the spray of foam or powder in favor of a mess-free gas that “chemically interrupts the chain of combustion,” as Element puts it. More simply, it suffocates the fire of oxygen so that the flame can’t sustain itself. Cleaning up after a fire extinguisher goes off takes a lot of elbow grease. Although it’s a lot easier than cleaning up after an unchecked fire.

Element extinguishers are a lot more expensive at $90, but they’re rated to fight all classes of fires, and they’re significantly smaller and lighter than traditional fire extinguishers. They haven’t replaced my traditional extinguishers around the house, but I’ve begun to outfit my cars with them.

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Matt Jancer

Writer

Matt Jancer has been in the industry for 15 years and lives in the greatest city on Earth, New York City. He’s traded words for money on behalf of more than 15 magazines. Some of his longest-running bylines were spent covering motorcycles, electric cars, outdoors gear, and other cutting-edge technology for Car and Driver, Outside, Esquire, Popular Mechanics, and Wired. When he isn't writing up deals and guides on how to live your life more easily, he's writing for enjoyment or out enjoying the great outdoors.

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Updated: February 24, 2025

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8 Safety Items You Should Always Keep in Your Car

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All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.

Going on a road trip has always represented freedom. You get to place the world’s problems on pause and drive towards new adventures. But while hitting the open road on a whim sounds fun, you don’t want to forget about an important need: safety. From car-related emergencies to risky weather to health concerns, you’ll want to take a few essentials to keep yourself and others safe. Don’t worry, preparing for the unexpected doesn’t have to mean overwhelming your car or causing unnecessary anxiety. Most of our picks can fit into your glove compartment, purse, or messenger bag and give you much-needed peace of mind about your upcoming trip, so you can get back to worrying about what matters: the best car-friendly snacks and an expertly tailored playlist.

_{Prices are accurate as of May 29, 2025. Subject to change.}

Portable Power Station

You may not always remember to charge your phone on the road. That’s why you want a portable power station. This model by EnginStar has been my trusted choice for several years. It’s versatile, accommodating AC outlets, USB, and USB-C connectors. All of your devices will stay powered.

Another helpful feature is the built-in light. It’s surprisingly powerful, and especially ideal if you have nighttime car trouble or you’re looking for something in the dark corners of your vehicle. It’s also lightweight at only four pounds, so it won’t weigh your bag down. Plus, it provides several hours of power on a single charge. You may not use it every day of your trip, but you’ll be glad you have it when you need it.

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AsterApp by LogicMark

Whether you’re venturing solo on the open road or traveling with your loved ones, emergencies can happen when you least expect them. Our phones give us easy access to help, but you may not want to — or be able to — fumble with it during a scary or stressful situation. The AsterApp solves this problem.

With this free app, add your loved ones as contacts who’ll see your schedule on the road. You can alert them about stops during your trip, like when you take a lunch break or when you are stopping for the night. If you don’t check in after a specified period of time and after responding to a text from AsterApp itself, the app alerts authorities. You may also want to combine this with the Aster Bluetooth button. Attach it to your purse or keys, and press the button if you need help.

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LifeVac Travel Kit

Snacks go hand in hand with road trips. Whether you embrace your inner five-year-old and go for junk food choices or opt for healthier alternatives, it’s one of the highlights of any adventure. However, choking is a serious risk that’s often overlooked. According to recent statistics, over 5,000 people died from choking in 2023 alone. The LifeVac Travel Kit will give you major peace of mind for this scenario.

This handy little device is compact enough for travel, but has life-saving benefits when needed. Put the mask over your or someone else’s mouth, push down on the mask (which does not push the obstruction further down the throat), and pull back for the suctioning. It includes a mask for both children and adults, and you can even perform it on yourself. We suggest getting used to the motion of using it without attaching it to someone’s mouth, so you’re prepared just in case. Some Better Report staffers have LifeVacs at home, too, however, it’s important to note that the LifeVac is not FDA-approved. We still think it’s important to learn how to do the Heimlich maneuver, but in the case that you can’t do it, having a backup plan isn’t a bad idea.

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Emergency Radio with NOAA Weather Alert

This multi-functional weather radio will become your essential adventure buddy if you are venturing off into regions with unpredictable weather patterns. Beyond receiving critical NOAA weather alerts, you can also tune into local AM/FM stations so you’re sure to get important local reports to help you navigate.

While it runs on batteries, there is a solar hand crank to keep it running during an emergency. The comprehensive design also includes a reading lamp and side flashlight, in case you want to check your surroundings or navigate to help. In the rare moment you truly do get lost, it comes with an SOS alert that uses a blinking red light and a surprisingly deafening alarm, which can potentially help people locate you if you get lost or visibility conditions become a challenge.

BUY FOR $36 AT AMAZON

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Car Roadside Emergency Kit

Even if you don’t have the skill set to perform car repairs, an emergency roadside kit comes in handy. This comprehensive set has just about everything you need to keep yourself safe and potentially address easy-to-fix problems.

Inside, you’ll find high-quality jumper cables, a sturdy tow rope, and a safety hammer to break the window if you can’t open the door. You’ll also find tire repair tools for fixable flats and reflective warning triangles to alert other drivers. There’s even a poncho for coverage in a rainstorm and safety gloves to prevent injury. Best of all, everything fits inside an easy-to-store bag that won’t overwhelm your trunk or backseat. Like some other items on this list, go through this kit and familiarize yourself with all the components. If you don’t know how to use jumper cables, for example, practice before heading out on the road.

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KeepGoing First Aid Kit

Whether it’s a minor cut or scrape or a bee sting, this first aid kit has pretty much all you need. The compact design won’t take up precious space in your vehicle while still giving you all the essentials in a nicely organized case. All the supplies from bandages to sting relief fit inside easy-to-sort folders. Find what you need in seconds, even if you’re stressed. If you’re bringing your little ones along, they’re sure to appreciate the included stickers that can become fun body decor after treatment.

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VIAIR Portable Air Compressor

Roadside service on your car isn’t always easy or fast. This portable tire inflator can come in handy, especially in combination with the roadside assistance kit. When possible, like if your tire simply loses air, you can inflate it with this portable and convenient tire inflator. The 10-foot power cord and three-foot air hose provide enough reach to handle all four tires.

It’s easy to take with you, and it’s not overly complicated to use. Just plug it into your car’s cigarette lighter, start your engine, connect the airhose to your tire, and power on the unit. The built-in pressure gauge gives precise readings so you won’t over- or under-inflate. It also works with a range of vehicles, including motorcycles, off-road vehicles, and more.

BUY FOR $70 AT AMAZON

Rechargeable Flashlights

While both the weather radio and the power station mentioned earlier come with built-in flashlights, sometimes you want a dedicated option that is brighter and easier to handle in a moment’s notice. This rechargeable option comes with five practical lighting modes. Turn on the high beam for maximum visibility, medium beam for general use, or low beam to conserve power. There’s also a strobe light to grab someone’s attention or a flashing SOS feature if you are trying to alert anyone for help.

It is fully waterproof, so no need to worry about a rainstorm getting in the way of your light source. You also don’t need to purchase extra batteries as it is USB rechargeable and a charge lasts for up to 12 hours.

BUY 3-PACK FOR $40 AT AMAZON

Feature Image Credit: Andrej Lišakov/ Unsplash

Lauren Dana Ellman

This article is for general informational purposes only.
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Posted In: Home

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Home

Essential Items Every Homeowner Needs

Better Report

All featured products and deals are selected independently and objectively by the author. Better Report may receive a share of sales via affiliate links in content.

A house needs a lot of things. Some are exciting to plan, like cozy furniture and decorations to make the space feel like you. But there are also essentials to keep your abode safe, clean, and functioning comfortably from roof to foundation. You don’t need to buy every single item on this list at once, but it’s worth considering what’s needed for your space. Start with safety, like smoke alarms and fire extinguishers, and then move on to the fun stuff like sheets and fancy showerheads.

_{Prices are accurate as of October 23, 2024. Subject to change.}

Health and Safety
Tools and Backups
Home Goods and Supplies
Just in Case

Health and Safety

Your home should be your safe space where you’re warm, comfortable, and relaxed without worry of potential threats — be it from intruders or accidents like fires or minor injuries.

Fires and Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Prevention

These should be on the top of your list because it takes very little money and prep work to protect yourself. It’s recommended to keep a fire extinguisher on each level of your house, including your basement. Smoke alarms should also be on every level, and the National Fire Protection Association recommends including them in each bedroom, too. Carbon monoxide detectors get the same recommendation as well, but at minimum, should be installed outside bedrooms so they’ll wake you up if they go off.

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